There is no better way to explore Oaxaca than through your stomach. When people think of Mexican food/drink, they think of 10-peso taco stands, rice and beans, and of course, tequila. However, Oaxaca has so much more to offer, it is the gastronomic hub of Mexico after all. Think mole to memelas, chapulines and mezcal, and everything in between. All roasted, subtle, layered, and oh so flavorful. After a semester of embracing my inner foodie, I figured the best way to end my time as a blogger is to share it all with you, provecho!
Tlayudas
By FAR my favorite Oaxacan food. Take a giant blue corn tortilla, cover it with a bit of pork lard, a layer of refried beans, add some avocado, cheese, and add a whopping serving of meat (typically chorizo, tasajo, or cecina). Roast it on a charcoal grill to melty perfection, and voalá. While it is certainly big enough for two people, I have no shame in eating the entire thing. It’s called “Mexican Pizza” for a reason. Perfect for late-night munchies or a “snack” while at one of the many markets throughout the city.
Chapulines
Chapulines = grasshoppers and they are flat-out amazing. Between door-to-door sales and big baskets at the markets, these tiny little bugs are incredibly accessible and manage to find their way into most Oaxacan dishes. However, they also make a delicious snack all on their own. A little burst of flavor that I can best describe as a sun-dried tomato. From salsa to pizza to the rim of your drink, chapulines add a sweet-n-sour note to foods that make them downright addictive. Just make sure to watch out for any little legs stuck in your teeth 😉
Memelas
When picturing breakfast in Mexico, images of chilaquiles and huevos con chorizo danced in my head. Nothing compares to the memelas (memelitas) I have the pleasure of eating at least once a week. The traditional way is to take an average-sized tortilla, cover it with a variety of things, such as beans, pork, quesillo (a uniquely Oaxacan cheese that comes in a giant ball and is a little briney), eggs, and salsa of all varieties, and toast it over a flame. I like my host mom’s version a little better. She ditches the frijol, slathers the tortilla in her hottest salsa, tops it with potatoes and chorizo, and throws a bit of queso fresco (best described as a mixture between mozzarella and gorgonzola) on top. To die for. It’s a good thing I can handle my chile, otherwise, I just might.
Mole
If you go to Oaxaca and don’t try mole, you’re doing it wrong, I’m sorry. In all honesty, the practice of making mole is a highly-respected practice not to be messed with. So, what is mole exactly? It is best described as a Oaxacan staple made entirely of roasted ingredients, slow-simmered together (often for hours) to create a thick sauce that is rich in complex flavors and tradition. Depending on the type of mole, these ingredients range from tomatillo to chocolate, an endless array of spices, and of course, chile. While household recipes vary, there are seven types of mole: negro, verde, coloradito, amarillo, chichilo, poblano (rojo), and manchamantel. Mole negro (made with chocolate) is by far my favorite, but poblano is a close runner-up.
Tejate
A drink made of corn had me a bit uneasy, I was picturing super watery oatmeal. There’s nothing I hate more than watery oatmeal. That being said, I was pleasantly surprised. Tejate is a drink that originates within the Zapotec and Mixtec people and can be found in most markets across the city. It consists of ground-up corn, cacao beans, other seedy bits, and cacao flower, mixed together with water and served cold from a GIANT bowl. If done correctly, the bits of cacao flower float to the top to create a foamy texture. It’s equal parts earthy and chocolatey, and not too sweet. Highly recommended.
Mezcal
Nowhere in the world will you find better mezcal than in Oaxaca, it’s the motherland. Much like mole, the distillation of mezcal is serious business. We’re talking a 200-year-old tradition. Often described as smoky tequila, mezcal is made from a double-distilled, roasted mash of agave plants (aka maguey). The roasting process (properly done in an underground roasting oven) is what provides mezcal its truly unique flavor. Much stronger than tequila, mezcal is meant to be sipped and can be served in a cup accompanied by an orange slice and a chapulines salt.
The food culture of Oaxaca is deeply rooted in tradition and community. A space that encourages people to take things slow and stay present in the moment. This mentality extends into all parts of Oaxacan creating hospitality like none other. If you couldn’t tell already, Oaxaca and its people are absolutely incredible and I could not be more grateful for my time here. Crazy to think I leave in a week, where did the time go? With that, I raise my copa of mezcal, and proclaim, “Until next time, Oaxaca.”
